Pouring on the Love
Dessert wines for Valentine's Day
By Michael Cervin 02/14/2008
On Valentine's Day, 1861, in England, Richard Cadbury (yes, the people who make the ubiquitous Cadbury eggs with that creepy yellow filling) introduced the very first heart-shaped box of chocolates. From that day to this, far too many of these anatomically inaccurate boxes have been purchased out of guilt, boredom, frustration and quite possibly love. We're eight years into the new millennium, and it's time to rethink standard Valentine's sweets. Yes, people love sugary tasting concoctions and, no offence to Mary See or the Whitman Sampler folks, but jelly-filled chocolates, pralines, and anything with marzipan needs a break.
It's time for liquid love. That's right, sweets you can drink. I'm talking port, dessert wines, sherry, anything sweet, smooth and with a decent alcohol level that's in liquid format. True ports come from Portugal using Portuguese grape varietals. California ports, or more broadly, desert wines produced in this county, are made from Syrah, merlot, zinfandel and the like. Both of these wines are fortified, meaning that either brandy or distilled spirits have been added. Late harvest wines are just that, grapes left on the vine long after they should have been harvested so the sugars concentrate. Late harvest wines can be made with most any grape, and it's not uncommon to see late harvest chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, zinfandel, even viognier. Most of these wines have residual sugars between 3 and 10 percent with alcohol levels that push 20 percent. The majority are sold in small bottles, but some are in the standard wine bottle size. Every wine shop from large to small carries dessert wines. Check out Westside Cellars in Ventura, Wades Wines in Westlake Village, or Beverages and More in Thousand Oaks for a broader selection.
Here are some sure bets.
Sine Qua Non: The Iceman ($175) Ventura. Manfred Krankl's wines are expensive, highly sought after and excellent. Produced right here in Ventura, make certain it's true love before you buy this opulent, viscous gewürztraminer with heaps of candied pineapple and citrus. Enjoy it by itself or with fruit and nuts.
Saucelito Canyon Late Harvest Zinfandel ($25) San Luis Obispo. These guys know how to make late harvest zinfandel. Packed with aromas of sweet raisin, caramel and wild cherry, this concoction is ideal with soft cheeses.
Kalyra Black Muscat ($14.50). Kalyra Winery in Santa Barbara produces over ten different types of desert wines. The Black Muscat is rich with sweet almonds and pomegranate, and complements bittersweet chocolate very nicely.
Cockburn's 10 Year Old Tawney Port ($26.99). Here's a true Portuguese port, medium intensity with scents of caramel, cinnamon, vanilla and sweet almonds. Perfect with hard cheeses like assiago and Romano.
Sheldrake Bunch Select Riesling ($19.99) Finger Lakes, New York. The Finger Lakes region has long produced ice wines, late harvest wines and ports. If you're an East Coaster, remind yourself of home with this low intensity wine with flavors of marshmallow, honeysuckle and mild green apple. Great over vanilla ice cream.
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