New Oxnard sushi bar makes regulars of its customers

Anaba Sushi  
3942 Tradewinds Dr.
Oxnard
382-1230
$4.95-$14.95

I’m sure that nearly every follower of this column has a favorite sushi or Japanese restaurant. The aficionados swear by the skills of their prized sushi chefs, and that “only an untrained palate eats yellowtail.” Even if one falls into any of those categories, there is now a Japanese restaurant in Ventura County that is sure to make it to the top of nearly everyone’s list. This restaurant is in the new Oxnard development called Seabridge (at Victoria Ave. and Wooley Road); the restaurant is called Anaba, and there is only one word necessary to describe it: exceptional.

Decorwise, it is very comfortable. One enters and sees the requisite chairs and dining space along the counter to watch the sushi chefs. Various-size tables fill the open dining area, and the back opens onto the new yacht channel marina part of the harbor that is Seabridge. It is neither too upscale nor family-style casual, but pleasantly upmarket and very comfortable. And now to the main attraction: the food.  

The first time I went to Anaba, my dining partner had to cancel, so I texted him photos and oohs, ahs and wows throughout my meal. That night, they had just received toro, a blue fin tuna from the Mediterranean, the underbelly of which is quite possibly the most perfect and sublime sashimi available. Served nestled on a bed of clear noodles and daikon, and topped with a freshly grated wasabi rhizome that had been folded into a tiny floret, this tender pink morsel of tuna literally melted in my mouth. Perfect was my only sensation. I knew at that moment that this was a restaurant where I would soon become one of the regulars and one of those people I mentioned in the opening paragraph.

I accompanied the toro with a taste of the evening’s special abalone awabi sushi. The tender yet slightly crunchy fish had the sweet aroma of the sea, which was accented by the delicious ponzu sauce and a sprinkling of spicy chili oil. My sushi chef that evening was Ken, and besides the toro, he raved about the yellowtail belly; so he created a special sushi roll with the yellowtail belly, spicy tuna and some albacore, with a fresh chili wrapped inside. This combination of sashimi delicacies was awesome, and like everything else I saw being served, it was presented in the most artistic, delicate and tasteful way.  

Before I left, Ken presented me with an apple, phenomenally thinly sliced and fanned into a perfect little sculpture with a thinly dribbled chocolate syrup coating. I could only say “Bravo!” to the entire meal and presentation. All of these items were evening specials, so the bill for everything was nearly $60, seemingly expensive but a bargain given the quality, the rarity and the expertise in preparation.  Generally, most items on the vast menu are priced on the low end of average sushi dining experiences. In fact Anaba’s menu tagline is “high quality sushi & affordable prices.” However, if you want the best and rarest fish on the daily special, it will set you back a bit. And it will be well worth it.

I’ve subsequently had many items on the menu; one particular favorite was the Spanish mackerel sashimi. The fish was liberally sprinkled with both black and tan sesame seeds and had an individual dot of mackerel roe on top. The head and tail were crunchy tempura fried, and on one side of the plate was a “taco salad”: pickled seaweed, pickled carrot and cucumber, and boiled octopus, complemented on the other side of the plate with needle-thin beet juliennes that looked like maroon spaghetti squash. Truly a feast for the eyes as well as the taste buds. My, oh my, I was overwhelmed with these sensations of the sea and palate.  

At lunch one day, I opted for the popcorn lobster yakisoba: the traditional Japanese pan-fried thin noodles mixed with mushrooms. This was probably my least favorite dish; it was a delightful combination of tastes and textures, but seemed to lack the creativity in presentation and preparation of the other plate offerings. My chef that day, Tony, had been the preparer of the stupendous mackerel dish, so the more common yakisoba simply paled in comparison to the other masterpiece.

The menu at Anaba is huge, the prices very reasonable (that yellowtail belly sushi was only $4.95) unless you opt for exotic rarities. For sake lovers, there is an extensive list of fine artisan sake. I’ll stick to the tea, and one item I’ve yet to try but that sounds and looks divine is the macadamia roll: “green bean tempura, cucumber, avocado and crab meat rolled together, spicy tuna and crunch macadamia nut on top served with eel sauce.”  At $11.95, it looks as though that will be my next nibble at Anaba. I’m sure that whatever your first bite at Anaba is, it will not be your last. This is a terrific new addition to Ventura County dining.      

jrgrantfoodie@gmail.com